There’s a special language to diamonds – cut, loupe, bezel, pave – that may seem confusing at first. But, with a little reading, you’ll know the difference between them all and be able to sound like a diamond "expert."
Tiny nicks along a diamond’s facet junctions that result in white fuzzy lines instead of sharp crisp facet edges.
An appraisal is an expert’s written estimate of the value of diamond jewelry; the approximately retail replacement cost. Appraisals are important for securing insurance and should be sought when purchasing antique or estate jewelry from individuals rather than established diamond outlets.
A step cut in the shape of a small rectangular diamond. May be tapered at one end. (Also a tasty bread!)
Any inclusion consisting of surface crumbling. Bruises are often accompanied by tiny feathers in the diamond.
Clouds are small specks or opaque areas in a diamond that give the stone a milky translucence.
The top section of a diamond, above its widest point, formed by the upper facets of the stone, is the crown.
Crystals are imperfections caused by mineral deposits trapped inside the diamond.
The culet, which may be faceted or not, is the point on the bottom of a diamond.
The distance from the top of a diamond to its bottom
A step cut, usually rectangular.
The flat planes on a diamond are its facets. To maximize a diamond’s reflective properties and brilliance, each facet must be carefully cut in an exact geometric relation to the others on the stone.
Small cracks within the diamond, so-called because of their feather shape.
Jeweler’s term for a ring-like shadow that can be seen when a diamond is viewed from the top.
This Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating is given by experts to diamonds that show no blemishes under l0th power magnification.
The Gemological Institute of America’s scale rates a diamond’s clarity from Flawsless to I3. (See Flawless, Internally Flawless, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, I3)
The Gemological Institute of America’s Color Grading Scale uses the letters D through Z to express the range of diamond colorations. Diamonds graded “colorless” – grades D through F – are the most highly prized. G-J are nearly colorless stones, while K-M have a faint yellow hue, N-Q a more intense tint, and S-Z are all light yellow in color.
Some buyers request that their purchase be certified by an independent laboratory, demonstrating that their diamond is indeed of the quality that has been promised to them. This written document is referred to as a Diamond Grading Report or Diamond Quality Report. It is sometimes called a “certificate,” but this is less not entirely correct. One of the most widely respected source for grading reports is the Gemological Institute of America.
Jeweler’s term for a stone whose imperfections are invisible to the eye and can only be detected under magnification.
Some diamonds when exposed to ultraviolet rays emit light. This characteristic – graded as None, Faint, Slight, Medium, Strong and Extreme – can affect a stone’s value. The color of the fluorescence, which ranges from blue through yellow and white, may also be significant because blue-light stones actually appear whiter in both natural and fluorescent lighting.
The dividing line between the upper and lower sections of a diamond; the girdle is the outermost edge. Its thickness may vary depending on how the work of the master who cut it.
IThis Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating – Included -- is given by experts to diamonds that exhibit large and clearly visible inclusions (including large feathers and large crystals) under 10th power magnification. Inclusions of this magnitude may affect both the transparency and brilliance of the diamond.
Identifying characteristics (imperfections) such as feathers, pinpoints, clouds and crystals found beneath the surface of the stone
These internal indications of irregular crystal growth may appear milky (like faint streaks), colored or reflective.
This Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating is given by experts to diamonds that have show no inclusions under 10th power magnification, but that show some minor blemishes.
An included diamond crystal which reaches the surface of a polished diamond.
The length-to-width ratio is the relationship between the length of a stone’s long and short dimensions.
A small, but powerful magnifying glass used to identify flaws in gemstones. Most loupes have a magnification power of ten.
Small diamonds weighing it at less than .20 carats
Jeweler’s term for a diamond with a dark center. Nailheads are usually the result of a too-deep pavilion that allows light to escape out the sides of the stone instead of out the top
An included crystal, long and think that has the appearance of a small rod.
NICK
A notch near the girdle of the diamond or a facet edge.
Miniscule spots found inside a diamond. If clustered, pinpoints may form a cloud.
Diamond weight is expressed in Carats, and each carat is divided into l00 equal “points.” The points of a fraction of a carat are “liquid,” representing a range of values. For example, every 1-carat diamond will have 100 points, but a _-carat diamond may have as few as .69 and as many as .82 points.
Surface clouding caused by excessive heat, this flaw is also caused a ‘burn mark’ or sometimes a ‘burned facet.’
The claw-like wires that are hold a diamond in place in its setting.
The most common cut of diamond, containing 58 facets. It is also the most spectacular cut because of its efficient use of light to increase brilliance and fire.
This Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating – Slightly Included -- is given to diamonds that contain inclusions including crystals, feathers, knots and cavities that are plainly visible under 10th power magnification.
A diamond’s setting refers to the way in which it is held in place. Settings are most often gold or platinum, but may also be sterling, or sterling overlaid with gold. The following are traditional settings, but many people design their own:
Delicate metal bars, placed on either side of the stones, are used to hold diamonds in place on a circular band.
Placed at the diamond’s midpoint to completely or partially surround the stone, a bezel setting holds a diamond in place with a thin band of metal. Versatile, with straight or scalloped edges, it can be molded to accommodate a wide variety of stones and shapes. A bezel setting is often selected for its enhanced protection for the middle and bottom portions of a diamond.
In a channel setting, two strips of metal hold the diamond(s) in place at the sides, protecting the girdle area and effectively securing small stones. Stones set in a channel are less likely to snag on garments.
Metal prongs that reach above the main body of the ring and are bent over to hold the stone in place. The shape and size of the stone determines the length of the prongs and the number required.
Prized for its ability to enhance a diamond’s brilliance by avoiding light-impeding prongs and bezels, an invisible setting places the metal underneath a series of closely-set diamonds, making them appear to stream in a single, uninterrupted flow.
Pavé sets diamonds into rows of tiny holes, with no metal visible between them. This gives them a cobblestone appearance from which the name is derived. (Pavé means paved in French)
Named for its creator, the famed founder of Tiffany & Company, this setting allows a maximum amount of light to enter the diamond from all angels, increasing and enhancing its brilliance. Dated back to the late 19th century, the Tiffany setting is available in a four- or six-pronged style, with sing prongs offering a superior measure of security.
Very popular in bridal rings, this four- or six-prong style is called a “Tiffany”
A diamond may be shaped by a master diamond cutter in one of seven ways: round, marquise, oval, princess, heart, pear and emerald. The most popular shape is round, or “brilliant cut,” which may have as many as 58 facets, offering maximum brilliance.
Note: The “shape” of the stone is different from its “cut” which refers to its physical proportions.
Located on the surface of a diamond, these imperfections are of minor concern as they are usually removed with polishing.
The symmetry of a diamond refers to the way in which facets align on the stone. Ratings for symmetry may be Excellent, Very Good or Good
The table is the flat facet at the top of a diamond. This characteristic is critical to a diamond’s brilliance as it impacts on the stone’s ability to disperse light.
This Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating – Very Slightly Included -- is given to diamonds that exhibit minute inclusions including small crystals, clouds and/or feathers under 10th power magnification.
This Gemological Institute of America Clarity Grading Scale rating – Very Very Slightly Included -- is given to diamonds that exhibit minute inclusions which may escape even an expert’s scrutiny under 10th power magnification.
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